内緒にしたいけど、教えちゃう-Dandelion(2016年11月号)

誰でもひとつやふたつは、自分だけのお楽しみの店があると思う。皆に教えたくはないけど、身近な友人にはコッソリお勧めしたくなる店。Elwoodにあるベトナム料理店Dandelionが、そのひとつだ。今回は、笑顔で迎えてくれたマネージャー Azさんのお勧めメニューをいただいた。

Dandelion

まずは、ベトナム料理の定番生春巻きのSmoked salmon rice paper rolls, asparagus, purple cabbage  with Yarra Valley Salmon Pearls, ginger nuoc cham。生春巻きはいろいろな店で食べるが、ここのは、ライスペーパーが薄い上に、ビーフンは入っておらず野菜がたっぶり。塩気の効いたサーモンやイクラ、フレッシュな野菜、ちょっぴりピリ辛な生姜ニョクマムが、丁度良いバランスで、スターターにピッタリ。

Smoked salmon rice paper rolls
Smoked salmon rice paper rolls, asparagus, purple cabbage  with Yarra Valley Salmon Pearls, ginger nuoc cham  $19

鮮やかな緑の衣を纏ったGreen rice fried Tiger prawns, nuoc cham。一見、日本の天ぷらを思わせるが、緑米を潰した粉を使用た衣は、サックリしているのに、後で微かにモチッとした食感が残るのだ。衣の中には、ムッチリと食べ応えのある海老が入っていて、思わずかぶりつきたくなる。しかし「付け合わせのハーブや野菜と一緒にレタスに包み、タレを付けて食べる」というAzさんの説明を思い出し、その通りに食べてみる。さまざまな食感と複雑な味わいは、是非体験して欲しい。お供には、ベトナムビールを。

Green rice fried Tiger prawns
Green rice fried Tiger prawns, nuoc cham (minimum order 3)   $6 each

メインには、店の人気メニューTwice cooked beef short ribs, coconut water, mountain spices with green mango salad。時間を掛けて料理された甘辛のリブは、ナイフがいらない程軟らかい。そのまま食べても十分おいしいが、こちらも付け添えのサラダやハーブ、ビーフンと一緒にレタスに包んで食べるとのこと。白米と合いそうなコッテリ味の肉が、野菜と食べることで意外とサッパリ。ボリュームがあるのに肉料理特有の食後の重たさがなく、野菜もたっぷり食べられるヘルシー感のあるひと皿。多少手が汚れるが、気にしないで食べてみて。

Twice cooked beef short ribs
Twice cooked beef short ribs, coconut water, mountain spices with green mango salad   $39

デザートには、スタイリッシュな見た目のSherry cherry chocolate parfait with lychee, crispy puff rice and passionfruit curdと、愛らしい雰囲気のGrilled sticky rice stuffed with banana, salted peanut and caramel ice cream。Sherry cherry chocolate parfaitは、メインの球体を割ってみると、チョコレート、チョコレートアイス、ライチアイスが層になっていてビックリ。チョコとライチの組み合わせも新鮮な味わいだ。

Sherry cherry chocolate parfait with lychee
Sherry cherry chocolate parfait with lychee, crispy puff rice and passionfruit curd   $14

Grilled sticky rice stuffed with bananaは、どこかホッとさせる懐かしい味わい。米やバナナのほんのりとした甘味にピーナッツの塩気が絶妙なバランスで、ついつい手が伸びてしまう。

Grilled sticky rice stuffed with banana
Grilled sticky rice stuffed with banana, salted peanut and caramel ice cream   $12

 メインの食材に野菜やハーブを組み合わせることで、おいしさの相乗効果が楽しめる料理。味付けはマイルドで、タレの付け加減で好みの味に調整できるのも魅力的。サービスもスマートで心地良く、交通の便が良いとは言い難いが、また来たいと思うこと間違いなしの店。ごちそうさまでした。

 

I want to keep this one a secret, but I'll tell you...

Everyone has that one restaurant. The kind of place they love and keep a secret from all but their closest friends. For me, the Elwood Vietnamese restaurant Dandelion is one of those places, and this month, we sat down there to enjoy the ever-smiling manager Az's recommended dishes. 

The first dish we tried was the smoked salmon rice paper rolls with asparagus, purple cabbage, Yarra Valley salmon pearls and ginger nuoc cham. Obviously you can get rice paper rolls everywhere, but these used thin rice paper and had no rice vermicelli, instead packing in the vegetables. The saltiness of the smoked salmon and salmon roe, combined with the freshness of the vegetables and light kick from the ginger nuoc cham really balanced out well, providing a perfect starter. 

Next we tried the green rice fried tiger prawns with nuoc cham. Coated in a vivid green batter, at first glance they almost reminded me of tempura, but biting into the batter, which uses crushed green rice flour, there's a faint mochi-like softness after the initial crunch that's unique. Combined with the firm, plump prawn inside, I just wanted to munch on these alone, but I remembered Az's explanation that they were meant to be eaten by wrapping the accompanying herbs and vegetables in lettuce and dipping them in sauce. So consumed, you get a variety of textures and complex flavours that I'd really recommend, especially paired with a Vietnamese beer. 

For our main, we enjoyed the popular twice-cooked beef short ribs, coconut water and mountain spices with green mango salad. Cooked over a long period of time, the sweet and spicy ribs don't need a knife, and whilst eating them as is would still be delicious, these are also meant to be eaten wrapped in lettuce leaves with the plated salad, herbs and rice vermicelli. The rich sauce on the ribs means they would also go well with white rice, but eaten with vegetables, it all becomes surprisingly refreshing. Despite there being plenty on the plate, there's no characteristic meat heaviness, and thanks to the large salad, it's also healthy. Of course, your hands will get slightly messy, but don't mind that - just enjoy! 

Our two desserts consisted of the stylish sherry cherry chocolate parfait with lychee, crispy puff rice and passionfruit curd, and the lovely grilled sticky rice stuffed with banana, salted peanut and caramel ice cream. Breaking into the round body of the parfait, I was shocked to find chocolate, chocolate ice cream and lychee ice cream all stacked in layers. The mixture of lychee and chocolate was refreshing, too. Meanwhile, the grilled sticky rice somehow touched a nostalgic nerve and took all my stresses away. The soft sweetness of the rice and banana, combined with the saltiness of the peanuts created a superb balance that kept me coming back for more. 

By combining herbs or vegetables with its main ingredients, Dandelion's cuisine allows you to enjoy a synergy of flavours. The seasonings are mild, and the fact you can vary sauce quantities to taste is another plus. Service is smart and friendly, and while public transport access is an issue, I'd love to come here again. Gotchisousamadeshita. 

 

Dandelion
133 Ormond Rd, Elwood
03 9531 4900
Lunch Thu - Sun  12 - 3pm
Dinner 7days 5:30pm - Midnight
W: dandelion.ws