第二の我が家へようこそ- Mr. Ottorino(2016年8月号)

ここ数年、急激な勢いで成長している外食産業。多くの店が、スタイリッシュさ、創作性の高さ、食材へのこだわりなど、他店との差別化を図ってさまざまな試みをしている今日この頃。食いしん坊の私としては、ウェルカムな状況ではあるが、片意地を張った料理ではなく、地に足の着いたホッとする料理が食べたい。そんなことをふっと思った時に出会った店が、4月に開店したシチリア料理の店Mr. Ottorinoだ。

Mr Ottorino

ここの料理は、共同オーナーであるMiceliさんとMattさん2人の祖父母達がオーストラリアに移住してきた50~60年代の料理をベースにしているという。料理をサーブする皿も、それぞれの祖父母や両親から譲り受けた物を使用しているそう。最近の流行とは違う、新しい料理に出会えそうな予感。早速、店のお勧めメニューをいただいた。

「刺身も良いけど、こんな食べ方もどう?」とサーブされたのは、Tuna, Preserved, Raw and Smoked, fennel, citrus。生、スモーク、低温加熱の3種類の調理法で調理したマグロが味わえる。同じ魚でも、こんなに味や風味が変わるのかとビックリ。フェンネルやディル、柑橘系のフルーツなど個性のある食材と合わせることで、奥深い味わいになっている。この組み合わせ、家で真似してみたくなる。

Tuna, Preserved, Raw and Smoked, fennel, citrus
Tuna, Preserved, Raw and Smoked, fennel, citrus   $15

取っ手が付いた変わったお皿で登場したのは、Whipped buffalo milk ricotta, honey, artichoke and pane carasau。クセがなくサッパリした自家製のリコッタチーズと、レストランの庭で採取するハチミツのやさしい甘味が絶妙。更に爽やかなバジルとレモンの香り、パリパリの薄いパンとアーティチョークの食感が加わり、小さいながらも複雑な表情を持つ一品。女性が喜びそうな爽やかでほんのり甘い味は、軽めのワインと合わせたい。

Whipped buffalo milk ricotta, honey, artichoke and pane carasau
Whipped buffalo milk ricotta, honey, artichoke and pane carasau   $12

性別や世代を超えて愛されているCavatelli, ragu di carne, peas。カヴァテッリと呼ばれるショートパスタに、存在感のある肉がゴロゴロ入ったラグーソースが絡んだひと皿。肉やトマトなどの素材の味が生きた素朴ではっきりした味わいに、太陽や大地の恵みのありがたさを感じる。

Cavatelli, ragu di carne, peas
Cavatelli, ragu di carne, peas  $20

見た目のインパクトもある、店の看板メニューBaby chicken, woodfired, rice stuffed, carriot,  salsa verde。この料理は、Mattさんの祖父のレシピ。スモーキーでジューシーなチキンにナイフを入れると、チキンの旨みをたっぷり吸い込んだご飯が現れる。口に運ぶと、じんわり体の細胞まで染み込むような、滋味深い味わい。結構なボリュームなので、女性ならシェアしても。

Baby chicken, woodfired, rice stuffed, carriot,  salsa verde
Baby chicken, woodfired, rice stuffed, carriot,  salsa verde   $36

誰かの日常の食卓を切り取ったような雰囲気だが、さり気なくプロの技が光る押し付けがましくない料理が楽しめる。素材の鮮度を大切にするため、付け合せの野菜やフルーツは、季節やその日の仕入れで変わるそう。気が付けば、足が勝手に店に向かっていそう。次回は、シチリアの名物デザートCannoliもいただこうかな。ごちそうさまでした。

 

Welcome to your second home

Recent years have seen the restaurant industry grow at a tremendous rate, and to differentiate themselves, establishments keep trying to outdo each other in elements such as style, creativity and a focus on ingredients. For a foodie like myself, this is a welcome development, but there are also times when I just want to enjoy a relaxed experience. Luckily enough, precisely when I wanted such a meal, I got to try Sicilian restaurant Mr. Ottorino, which opened in April. 

The two owners, Miceli and Matt base their recipes on dishes their grandparents brought with them to Australia in the 1950s and 1960s, and even the plates are ones handed down by their parents and grandparents. It's definitely the kind of place where trends are less important than taste. We quickly tucked into their recommended dishes. 

Our waiter presented the first dish, "Tuna, Preserved, Raw and Smoked, fennel, citrus" by saying 'Sashimi is good, but how about this?'. I was really shocked how different each cooking method made the tuna taste. By matching the fennel, dill, citrus fruits and other ingredients to their respective cooking methods, you end up with really deep flavours. It's something I'd like to try at home. 

Next up was a unique-looking plate with handles attached. This contained the "Whipped buffalo milk ricotta, honey, artichoke and pane carasau". The house-made ricotta was light and easy to eat, while the honey, harvested from the establishment's own garden beehive had a soft sweetness that was just divine. Add to that the refreshing aromas from the basil and lemon, plus the crunch from the pane carasau and artichoke and you have a small, but complex dish. The lightness and sweetness will no doubt really appeal to women, and I'd have loved to match it to a light wine. 

One dish that should appeal to anyone (vegetarians and vegans excepted) is the "Cavatelli, ragu di carne, peas". The short pasta pieces are covered with the meaty ragu and you can really taste the tomato, meat and other flavours. It's a dish clearly made with respect for its ingredients. 

Finally, the signature 'Baby chicken, woodfired, rice stuffed, carriot,  salsa verde' has serious visual impact and being Matt's grandfather's recipe, backs it up in taste. Cutting into the smoky, juicy chicken reveals rice that's absorbed the bird's tasty juices and the rich, wholesome flavours feel as if they're going to soak directly into your cells. It's a pretty big dish though, so female diners might want to order it to share. 

Mr. Ottorino feels like someone took an everyday Italian dining room and transplanted it into a restaurant, with the advantage of a professional chef in the kitchen. It clearly values freshness, with certain ingredients changing with the seasons and even by the day, depending on what they can get. It's the kind of place your feet lead you to unconsciously. Next time, we'd definitely like to try the cannoli for dessert. Gochisousama deshita. 

 

Mr. Ottorino
122 Johnston St. Fitzroy
Tue & Wed: 5:30pm - till late
Thu - Sun: 12pm - till late
W: mrottorino.com