旬な素材をメニューに-Noir (2012年9月号)

 

Richmondと聞いて、っ先にベトナム食材や料理のVictoria St.、買い物天Bridge Rd. の名をげる人は多いが、Swan St. げる人は少ないのではないだろうか。確かに、Victoria St.Bridge Rd. と比べると、インパクトに欠けるSwan St. 。しかし、通りをじっくりいてみると、ピンッと自分のこれは良さそうアンテナに引っかかる貨屋、レストランやバがポツポツ存在する。聞けば近年の都市の大化の影響で、新しく個性的かつおしゃれな店が開店しているのだとか。そんなSwan St. に、昨年3月にオプンしたNoirがある。

 

  

フランス語でを意味する店名から想像できるとおり、を基調とした店で、ミシュランの星の付いたレストランで経験を積んだヘッドシェフPeterさんが作り出す料理がしめる。週に1回、仕入れや旬を考慮して微妙にわるメニュから、まずはPremiun pacific oysters served natural with champagne granita

 

Premiun pacific oysters served natural with champagne granita $18.5

生牡蠣の上にシャンパンシャベット、そこにライムをギュッと絞っていただく。シャベットのほのかな甘みと牡蠣の相性が良いのが言うまでもないが、ライムの香りがとても爽やか。レモンじゃなくて、ライム。これは、この料理のれないポイントだ。

いて、Eye fillet of beef tartare, waldorf salad and crisp bread 女性が喜びそうな見た目とは裏腹に、牛肉のタルタルは、ワインがすすみそうなしっかりした味付け。タルタルだけでも十分においしいが、是非りんごのサラダと一に食べてハモニを味わって欲しい。

Eye fillet of beef tartare, waldorf salad and crisp bread $18.5

メインは、Crisp breast and confit leg of Devon duck with carrots, chestnuts and brussel sprouts

 

Crisp breast and confit leg of Devon duck with carrots, chestnuts and brussel sprouts $38

こちらもワインに合いそうな、鴨の胸肉ともも肉が味わえるちょっと欲張りなひと皿。パリッとした皮にジュな胸肉、ムッチリとしたもも肉。同じ鴨なのに、部位によってこんなに味や食感が違うのかと、改めてビックリ。更に、芽キャベツがミニロルキャベツのようになっていたのには、その細かさに思わず帽してしまう。


 

Rich chocolate marquise with blood oranges and grand marnire  $15

デザトは、Rich chocolate marquise with blood oranges and grand marnire
濃厚なチョコレトのムスに酸味がめのブラッドオレンジは、誰もが認めるゴルデンコンビネション。かなり濃厚なので23人でシェアするのがおめ。

程好くカジュアルなので、かしこまらないデトはもちろん、友達の誕生日やキャッチアップの場としても使えそう。ごちそうさまでした。

 

Many people, when they hear “Richmond”, think first of Victoria St with its Vietnamese food or the shopping paradise of Bridge Rd; there are probably not many who think of Swan St. It’s true that compared to Victoria St or Bridge Rd, Swan St lacks impact. However, if you take your time walking down the street, your attention is immediately drawn to variety stores, restaurants and bars that seem to appeal. I’ve been told that in recent years due to urban growth, many new shops with style and character are opening. One place that opened on Swan St in March last year is Noir.

At Noir – decorated in black, as you might imagine from its French name – you can enjoy the cuisine of head chef Peter, who has experience in Michelin-starred restaurants. The menu changes subtly each week according to season and what’s in stock.

From this menu I firstly choose the “premium Pacific oysters served natural with champagne granita”. Raw oysters are topped with a champagne sorbet and a generous squeeze of lime. It goes without saying that the delicate sweetness of the sorbet goes beautifully with the oysters, but the fragrance of the lime is also very refreshing. Not lemon, but lime – with this dish, that’s non-negotiable.

Next I order the “eye fillet of beef tartare, Waldorf salad and crisp bread”. The well-seasoned beef tartare would go well with wine, and could appeal to the female eye. The tartare alone is delicious enough, but you should also experience how harmoniously it goes with the apple salad.

For my main, I decide on “crisp breast and confit leg of Devon duck with carrots, chestnuts and Brussels sprouts”. This rather decadent dish of duck breast and leg would also go well with wine. I am surprised by how different in taste and texture the juicy, crunchy-skinned breast and the plump leg meat are, despite their coming from the same bird. I also take my hat off to the brussels sprouts done up like mini cabbage rolls!

For dessert, I try the “rich chocolate marquise with blood oranges and Grand Marnier”. I think anyone would agree that rich chocolate mousse with tart blood oranges is a winning combination. Being quite rich, this dessert would best be shared between two or three.

Noir is pleasantly casual, so it would be great for less formal dates, catch-ups with friends, and birthday parties. Thanks for the meal.

 

Noir

175 Swan St. Richmond
03-9428-3585

Lunch  Fri-Sun 12pm -
Dinner  Mon-Sun  6pm -
www.noirrestaurant.com.au