Greek + English 味の新世界 - Bahari(2019年8月号)


「どんどん持っていくね」と次々に料理が運ばれ、気が付けばテーブルがいっぱいに。まずはTrio of dips + pita bread から。トロリとした食感のスモーキーなナスのディップMelitzanosalata、他店よりアッサリした魚卵のディップTaramosalata、時々青臭さが気になるヨーグルトベースのTzatzikiは、匂いが気にならず食べやすい。どれもピタブレットと相性抜群でスターターにもってこい。

Trio of dips + pita bread $18.5
Trio of dips + pita bread $18.5

本日のスペシャルメニューから2品。 新鮮なGar fishが手に入ったときだけ提供される Gar fish Skewersは、魚の持ち味を生かして味付けも料理もシンプル。

Gar fish Skewers
Gar fish Skewers (From special on board)

Zucchini Flower Stuffing with prawnは、花の部分にえびのすり身を詰めて揚げた一品。サクッとした衣に、ムチッとしたえび特有のほんのり甘みのあるすり身が絶妙。

Zucchini Flower Stuffing with prawn
Zucchini Flower Stuffing with prawn (From special on board)

色合いの良いサラダは、‘Horiatiki’ Greek saladと‘Pantzarosalata’ Beetroot salad。Horiatikiは王道だが、ふんわりとした優しい酸味が、野菜の味を引き立てている。

‘Horiatiki’ Greek salad
‘Horiatiki’ Greek salad $15


Pantzarosalata’ Beetroot salad
Pantzarosalata’ Beetroot salad $16.5

小さなフライパンの意味のSaganaki は熱々がおいしい料理。こってり重めで苦手だったのだが、ここのは、くどくなくてビックリ。

Saganaki $15

香ばしい香りのOctopusは、炭火で焼かれたタコに、アニスの甘い香りが特徴の蒸留酒Ouzoやレモン、Extra Virgin Olive Oil (EVOO)などを合わせた地中海沿岸らしいひと皿。

Octopus $21

ボリュームたっぷりのSlow roasted Lamb Shoulderは、素材の味を最大限に引き出す調理法で、ラムの旨味がギュッと詰まっている。レモンやハーブでサッパリした口当たりなのがうれしい。 

Slow roasted Lamb Shoulder
Slow roasted Lamb Shoulder $22.5

最後はデザート3種。Baklavaは強烈に甘い印象があるが、ナッツがたっぷりシロップ少なめなので、甘い物は苦手と言う人にお勧め。ギリシャ版バニラスライスGalaktobourekoは、カスタードを挟んだパイにレモンとバニラの風味のシロップがひたしてあるのが特徴だ。Halva Ice Creamは、どこかライスプディングを彷彿とさせる素朴な味わい。どれも夕食のフィナーレを飾るのにピッタリ。

Baklava, Halva Ice Cream, Galaktoboureko
Baklava $9, Halva Ice Cream $8.5, Galaktoboureko $9




Mixing Greek and English to Create a New World of Flavours

Mediterranean cuisine is famous for using nature’s blessings to create food that’s not just delicious, but good for you too. This month’s restaurant, Bahari, combines nutritious food, in the form of a Greek base, with Melbournian influences to create ‘Gringlish’. Chaired by former MasterChef contestant Philip Vakos, we tried a variety of his recommended dishes to see what this new hybrid was like. 

After ordering, we were told the dishes would just keep coming, and soon enough, our table was full. First we tried the Trio of dips and pita bread. The dips consisted of the thick and smoky eggplant Melitzanosalata, the surprisingly light and refreshing Taramosalata, and the Tzatziki, which proved much less grassy in flavour than we were expecting, and therefore easier to eat. Each went perfectly with the pita bread, and ensured this was a brilliant starter. 

We followed the dips with two dishes from the specials menu – Garfish skewers and Zucchini flower stuffing with prawn. The skewers are only available when the restaurant can get the garfish fresh, and are prepared and cooked simply. Meanwhile, the Zucchini flowers were stuffed with ground prawn meat and deep fried. The initial crunch, followed by the plump, sweet prawn meat, was just divine.   

Both the Horiatiki Greek salad and Pantzarosalata beetroot salad we had next used colour well in their presentation, and while a Horiatiki salad is standard Greek fare, this one stood out thanks to its light, gentle acidity that drew out the vegetables’ flavours. The Pantzarosalata, meanwhile, created complex flavour combinations, thanks to mixing the beetroot’s sweetness and fetta cheese’s tartness and depth. The faint aroma of the mint and texture of the walnuts added nice accents, too.  

Saganaki means ‘small frypan’, and the cheese that was cooked in one here was both hot and delicious. We’re normally not fans of rich, heavy foods like fried cheese, but we were shocked at how light and easy-to-eat this example was. The aromatic octopus that followed was cooked over a charcoal flame and flavoured with Ouzo, lemon, extra virgin olive oil and more to create a very Mediterranean dish. Finally (in terms of savouries), the Slow-roasted lamb shoulder was cooked in a way that made the absolute most of the meat’s inherent flavours. We also loved the refreshing lemon and herb seasoning. 

Rounding out the meal, we tried three different desserts. Baklava can often be incredibly sweet, but with lots of nuts and less syrup, this one is perfect for those without a huge sweet tooth. The Galaktoboureko is kind of like a Greek vanilla slice, with vanilla- and lemon-infused custard, sandwiched in filo pastry. Meanwhile, the Halva ice cream has a simple flavour that almost reminds you of rice pudding. Each would be a perfect way to finish off your meal. 

Bahari is a restaurant with strong Greek roots that, in true Melbourne fashion, also brings in lots of influences from around the world. It’s a new type of Greek cuisine, and thanks to its light, refreshing character, one that’s very easy to over-indulge in. As well as parties and functions, it also does catering, so it’s definitely one to keep in mind for any occasion. Gochisousamadeshita.  


Bahari | The Hellenic Palate
177-179 Swan St, Richmond
T: 03 9427 7898
Thu・Fri 12~3pm,  Sat・Sun 12~3:30pm, Sun~Thu 5~10pm,  Fri・Sat 5~11pm