2020/01/31
身も心もとろけるイタリアン - MASSI（2020年02月号）
「こんなところに雰囲気の良さそうな店があったんだ」と気が付くことがあるメルボルン。今回紹介するイタリア料理店MASSIもそんな店のひとつ。間口が狭く、見逃してしまいそうだが、ランチタイムはスーツを着たビジネスマンで賑わい、ディナータイムはデートと思しきカップル達がしっとりとした雰囲気の中、食事を楽しむ人気店。期待に胸躍らせ、シェフお勧めのメニューをいただいた。
Massi
 
まずは前菜から2品。Pan-Seared Scallops, Charred Corn + Oregano Oilは、表面だけサッと火を通したホタテの旨味を含んだ甘味と、コーンの優しいおおらかな甘味のコンビネーションが絶妙。甘さの中に微かに酸味もあり、奥行きのある味わいになっている。
Pan-Seared Scallops, Charred Corn + Oregano Oil
Pan-Seared Scallops, Charred Corn + Oregano Oil $8 pp
 
Calamari + Octopus Escabeche, Black Rice Crostiniは、どこか海を連想させるプレゼンテーション。イカとタコはどちらも柔らかく、少し酸味があってサッパリしているので、夏の暑さで食欲の落ちている人でもおいしく食べられそう。どちらも、スッキリとした白ワインと合いそうだ。
Calamari + Octopus Escabeche, Black Rice Crostini
Calamari + Octopus Escabeche, Black Rice Crostini $19
 
続いては、Ricotta Gnocchi, Creamed Caramelized Fennel + Zucchini Fresca。店によって当たりはずれの多いニョッキだが、ここのはスムーズな舌触りで私好み。しかも、ポテトと小麦粉のほかにリコッタチーズが練り込まれていて、他店のニョッキよりも軽めな仕上がり。クリーミーなソースと相性抜群で、小さく角切りにされたズッキーニの食感が良いアクセントになっている。
Ricotta Gnocchi, Creamed Caramelized Fennel + Zucchini Fresca
Ricotta Gnocchi, Creamed Caramelized Fennel + Zucchini Fresca $29
 
メインにはBlack Angus Flatiron Steak, Sweet Potato + Mustard Mille-Foglie。レアに近い状態のステーキと、薄いスライスのスイートポテトにマスタードを塗り、何層にも重ねたMille-Foglie。ボリュームのあるひと皿だ。肉の味がストレートに味わえるステーキと、ほんのり甘いMille-Foglieを引き立てるのが、一見チョコレートのようなマスタードソース。風味がとても良いのにツンとしたところがなくマイルドで、食材の持ち味を引き出している。
Black Angus Flatiron Steak, Sweet Potato + Mustard Mille-Foglie
Black Angus Flatiron Steak, Sweet Potato + Mustard Mille-Foglie $41
 
締めくくりはYoghurt Pannacotta, Watermelon Gel + Berries。通常のクリームたっぷりで濃厚なパンナコッタに対し、ここのはヨーグルトを使用してアッサリとした食べ心地。一緒にサーブされるベリー類やスイカのジェルもよく合っている。アクセントのミントの風味が爽やかで、食事の最後を飾るのにピッタリ。
Yoghurt Pannacotta, Watermelon Gel + Berries
Yoghurt Pannacotta, Watermelon Gel + Berries $16
 
小ぢんまりした心地よい空間と、小技が光る料理が楽しめる店。昼と夜で雰囲気ががらりと変わるので、どちらも試してみては。ごちそうさま。
 
 
Heart-meltingly good Italian
 
Melbourne’s restaurant scene is filled with hidden gems, and this month’s establishment is very much one of those. Massi has a  narrow entrance that you’re likely to walk right past, but whether it’s the suits who pack it at lunchtime, or the couples who frequent it for dinner, Massi is a hit with the locals. We found out why after sampling a selection of the chef’s recommendations in its graceful, mellow surrounds. 
 
We started with two antipasti – the Pan-Seared Scallops, Charred Corn + Oregano Oil, and the Calamari + Octopus Escaneche, Black Rice Crostini. The lightly-seared scallops, with their umami and sweetness, combined with the corn’s own gentle sweetness to form an exquisite combination, and the slight hint of acidity helped give the dish depth, too. The Escabeche, meanwhile, evoked images of the sea in its presentation, and the tender calamari and octopus, along with a faint acidity, created a refreshing plate that would go down especially well with those whose appetites might have been dulled by the summer heat. Either dish would go well with a light white. 
 
Next came the Ricotta Gnocchi, Creamed Caramelized Fennel + Zucchini Fresca. Gnocchi is very much a hit-or-miss affair, depending on the restaurant, but the smooth texture, along with the lightness that comes from kneading ricotta in with the potato and flour, shows they’ve got it right. The creamy sauce matches perfectly, and the little cubes of zucchini add a lovely accent. 
 
For our main, we tried the Black Angus Flatiron Steak, Sweet Potato + Mustard Mille-Foglie. The steak was served almost rare, allowing you to fully taste its natural flavours, and partnered with thinly-sliced potato, with mustard spread on top of both. Partnered with the mille-folgie, it was a voluminous meal. The mustard, which at first glance looks like chocolate, is what makes the dish. Its fantastic, mild flavour wasn’t sullied by any sharp, spicy peaks, and it really drew out the best in each main ingredient. 
 
To finish, we had the Yoghurt Pannacotta, Watermelon Gel + Berries. By using yoghurt instead of cream, Massi has created a much lighter take on the dessert, and the berries and watermelon gel work well with it. The mint served as a refreshing accent, and overall, it was an ideal way to round out the meal. 
 
If you want cuisine created with delicacy and flair, served in cosy surroundings, Massi is a great option. The atmosphere changes completely between lunch and dinner, too, so why not try both? Gochisousamadeshita.
 
MASSI
445 Little Collins St, Melbourne
03 9242 0814
Mon~Fri 11am~3pm, Mon~Fri 5pm~Late, Sat 5:30pm~Late
 
Before each meal in Japan, you say ‘itadakimasu’, and afterwards, ‘gochisousama’. Itadakimasu conveys your gratitude to both the ingredients that gave up their lives to feed you, and everyone involved in bringing you your food. Gochisousama, meanwhile, conveys thanks purely to the people who prepared and served your meal.