DENGON NET

メルボルンにはさまざまな店があるが、さりげない佇まいでまわりの風景に馴染んでいる店があると、気になって仕方がない。私の経験から言うと、こういった雰囲気の店は当たりが多いのだ。Press ClubやSt.Crispinで腕を振るったシェフJoeさんが独立し開いた店Saxeもそんな店のひとつ。フランスやギリシャなどの伝統を踏まえた上で、モダンに創作した料理が楽しめる。カジュアル過ぎず、フォーマル過ぎない心地の良い空間で、Joeさんお勧めのメニューをいただいた。

白い壁とブルーのベルベットのシートが印象的な2階席。窓際の席に着き外の眺めを楽しんでいるところに、Grilled Octopus, smoked potato, taramosalata, saffron and musselが登場。香ばしいタコに、スモーキーで味の濃いポテトと濃厚なタラモサラタが良く合う。なんでもこのタラモサラタはJoeさんお得意メニューのひとつで、これを目当てにやってくる常連客も多いとか。

Grilled Octopus, smoked potato, taramosalata, saffron and mussel $23

続いては、彩りが美しいTartare of Kangaroo, BBQ  and lacto plum, pine nut, pink peppercorn。フレンチの定番ビーフのタルタルではなく、カンガルーのタルタル。ジビエ特有のクセが…と思ったのだが、プラムの甘みやハーブなどでとても食べやすくなっている。最初はほのかな酸味と甘みが広がり、後味に微かに肉の旨味が残る絶妙なバランス。タピオカのクラッカーのサクサクした食感も良いアクセントになっている。

Tartare of Kangaroo, BBQ  and lacto plum, pine nut, pink peppercorn $21

メインは、香ばしい香りのBannockburn chicken, sweet corn, cos lettuce emulsion, buttermilk, Jus gras。見た目にもボリュームのある分厚いチキンは、皮はパリッ、身はふっくらジューシーで、理想的な火の入り具合。ちょっぴりクリーミーなレタスのビューレや、ほんのり甘いソースとの相性が抜群なのは言うまでもない。付け合わせのコーンのプチプチした食感も楽しく、ワインが進みそうな一品。

Bannockburn chicken, sweet corn, cos lettuce emulsion, buttermilk, Jus gras $40

最後はチョコレートとビートルートが組み合わさったデザートChocolate custard, soil and sorbet, beetroot compote, coriander seed, cocoa nib。私はチョコレートもビートルートも好きなのだが、組み合わせるという発想はなかったので、メニューを見たときから気になっていた。正直「ビートルートが持つ大地の風味がチョコレートと合うのか?」と思いながらひと口食べてみると、濃厚なチョコレートにビートルートの風味が意外とマッチしていてビックリ。「本当に?」と疑っている方、是非お試しを。

Chocolate custard, soil and sorbet, beetroot compote, coriander seed, cocoa nib $16

1階はややカジュアル、2階はややフォーマルとビジネスシーン、特別な日、気軽なキャッチアップ、どんなシチュエーションでも使えそうな店。どの料理も味はもちろん、プレゼンテーションも美しく、目も舌も満足できること間違いなし。ごちそうさまでした。

Enjoy a Delicious Time

Melbourne is home to a huge array of restaurants, but whenever we see an unassuming little shopfront that just seems part of the scenery, we can’t help but want to check it out. Indeed, an awful lot of our dining experiences to date have been based around this curiosity. And this month’s restaurant is no different. Saxe, presided over by former Press Club and St. Crispin head chef Joe Grbac fuses French, Greek and other influences yet adds a modern twist. It is neither too casual nor too formal and is therefore just a nice place to be. During our time there, we tried a selection of Joe’s recommended dishes. 

Seated on the second floor, with its trademark white walls and abutting blue velvet benches, we were enjoying the view from our window seat when the Grilled octopus, smoked potato, taramosalata, saffron and mussels turned up. The combination of the aromatic octopus, smoky potato and rich taramosalata worked really well, and we were told the taramosalata (one of Joe’s specialties) alone is responsible for bringing in many repeat customers.  

Next we tried the beautifully coloured Tartare of kangaroo, with BBQ lacto plum, pine nut and pink peppercorn. Obviously this is a very Australian take on the French classic, but we were afraid the gaminess of the ‘roo might spoil things a little. We needn’t have worried – the sweetness of the plum and skillful use of herbs and other ingredients meant it went down very easily. Particularly, the way the dish’s faint sweetness and sourness filled the mouth at the start, and was balanced by the meat’s light, lingering umami at the end, was just superb. The crunchiness of the tapioca crackers added a nice accent too. 

For our main meal we had the aromatic Bannockburn chicken with sweet corn, cos lettuce, buttermilk and jus gras. The thick, juicy chicken gave the dish both volume and visual impact, and the crispy skin and tender flesh showed they certainly knew how to cook it right. As is almost expected by this point, the chicken went perfectly with both the creamy lettuce purée and the lightly sweetened sauce. The fun feeling of the corn kernels popping in your mouth added another dimension, and overall, it was a dish that would definitely go well with a glass of wine (or two). 

Dessert consisted of the Chocolate custard, soil and sorbet with beetroot compote, coriander seed and cocoa nibs. I love both chocolate and beetroot, but I’d never thought of combining them, so from the moment I saw this on the menu I was intrigued. Honestly, I did wonder if the earthy taste of beetroot would work with chocolate, but upon tasting it, I was shocked to find it paired well. For those doubting me, I suggest you try it for yourselves. 

With its first floor fairly casual and its second more formal, Saxe is suitable for everything from a quick catch up to special occasions. And with its food both delicious and beautifully presented, it’s a feast for both the eyes and the stomach. Gochisousamadeshita. 

Saxe
211 Queen St, Melbourne
T: 03 9089 6699
Mon: 12-6pm, Tue-Fri: 12pm-Late, Sat: 5pm-Late
W: saxe.com.au