DENGON NET

近年、急速に近代化・商業化が進むメルボルン。
個性派ストリートと呼ばれる通りが、画一的なおすまし顔に変わりつつある中、
独自の雰囲気を保っているのがEast BrunswickのLygon St.。
そこに元々は銀行だったビルを改装したモダンな装いのKumo Izakayaがある。
天井が高く開放感がある店内は、モダンな中にもレトロ感の漂うアールデコスタイルで、
デートにも使えそうな雰囲気。

席に着いて、驚かされるのがSakeメニューの分厚さ。
取り扱っている70種以上の日本酒の説明はもちろん、日本酒のさまざまなことが書かれている。オーナーがSakeマスターのAndreさんと聞いて納得。
聞けば、スタッフ全員が、お酒について教育を受けているので、
料理に合うお酒のアドバイスも可能だとか。
料理は、酒好きでなくても心躍るメニューがずらりと並ぶ。

まずは、スペシャルメニューからOyster served natural with ponzu & lemon。
タスマニア島の北西の湾で獲れたこの牡蠣は、メルボルンで見たどの牡蠣よりも大きく、
味もしっかりしていて、食べ応えあり。

更に、Sashimi jo-moriawaseとTuna yukke with onsen-poached quail egg in crunchy cup。
6種類の刺身が楽しめるSashimi jo-moriawaseは、どれも新鮮でシェアプレートにピッタリ。

Sashimi jo-moriawase　$32.8

Tuna yukkeは、ごま油であえたマグロの刺身とうずらの温泉卵を絡めて、
春巻きの皮のようなパリパリしたカップごと食べる濃厚な1品。
ライトなお酒と合わせたい。

Tuna yukke with onsen-poached quail egg in  crunchy cup　$16.8

刺身系の次は、King prawn fry wrapped in potato with green tea saltと
Tea smoked duck fillet with crispy wonton。

熱々で登場したKing prawn fryは、
カリカリになった千切りじゃがいもの衣とぷりぷりした海老、抹茶塩が渾然一体となり、
Andreさんが勧める古酒以外に、ビールやソフトドリンクとも合うご機嫌なひと皿。
このカリカリ感はクセになりそう。

King prawn fry wrapped in potato with green tea salt　$16.8

Tea smoked duck fillet は、ほんのりスモーキーな鴨肉と
パリッとしたワンタンの食感の違いが楽しい。
鴨のような狩猟肉は、独特なクセが気になることもあるのだが、
この鴨肉、野性味は残しつつも食べやすく、ドライなお酒や赤ワインと合いそうだ。

Tea smoked duck fillet with crispy wonton 　$18.8

酒の肴と言ってしまうには、味も見た目も上等過ぎる料理の出る店。
次回は、Omakaseコースで、味わってみようかなぁ。

In recent years, modernisation and commercialisation have been advancing throughout Melbourne.
While many unique streets are taking on a standardised and “proper” appearance,
one that still retains its characteristic ambience is East Brunswick's Lygon St.
There, in a renovated and restyled bank building, we find Kumo Izakaya.

The high ceilings and open-plan layout are modern but there are also aspects of retro
art deco style – it feels like it could be a good place for a date.
Arriving at my seat I am astonished by the size of the sake menu.
As well as descriptions of the 70-odd types of sake served here, there is also a lot of
additional information about sake. When I hear Kumo’s owner is Andre the Sake Master, I understand.
I'm told that all of the staff have undergone sake training, and can provide advice on
which sake would suit a particular dish. And the menu is exciting even for non-drinkers.

First we order “oyster served natural with ponzu and lemon” from the specials menu.
The oysters, harvested off the north-west coast of Tasmania, are bigger than any I've seen in Melbourne before, robust in flavour and filling too.

Next, “sashimi jo-moriawase” and “tuna yukke with onsen-poached quail egg in crunchy cup”.
The sashimi jo-moriawase consists of six kinds of fresh sashimi to enjoy, perfect as a share plate.

The tuna yukke is a rich dish comprising of tuna sashimi with sesame oil and slow-cooked quail eggs each in an edible “cup” that's crunchy like the outside of a spring roll.
It would match well with a light sake.

Next in the seafood category we tried “king prawn fry wrapped in potato with green tea salt” and “tea smoked duck fillet with crispy wonton”.
The king prawn fry arrived sizzling hot, the crispy julienned potato, tender prawns and green tea salt harmonising perfectly. 

This pleasant dish would go well with aged sake, as Andrew recommends, or with beer or soft drink – and its crispiness could be habit-forming!

As for the tea smoked duck fillet, the faintly smokey duck meat and crunchy wonton make a delightful contrast. Some may be worried about the gamey flavour particular to meats such as duck, but in this case the duck goes down well despite a little gaminess. It could go well with a dry sake or red wine.

This izakaya serves food so high in quality both in taste and appearance that it's hard to see it just as appetizers to accompany sake. Next time I might try the “omakase” course.

Kumo Izakaya
152 Lygon St. East Brunswick
03-9388-1505
Mon 5pm-11pm
Tue-Thu 5pm-12am
Fri 5pm-12:30am
Sat 12pm-3pm・5pm-12:30am
Sun 12pm-3pm・5pm-12am

kumoizakaya.com.au