In December 2013, UNESCO placed ‘Washoku: Traditional Dietary Cultures of the Japanese’ on its Intangible Cultural Heritage list. In its application, which revolved around the concept of a ‘respect for nature’, the Japanese government’s Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries put forward the following four reasons as to why they considered washoku special.

1. It uses a wide variety of fresh ingredients, and respects the natural flavours of each one.

Japan is blessed with oceans, mountains and lush countryside. This variety means each region has its own unique ingredients, which they continue to develop by inventing new cooking techniques and tools.

2. It’s a healthy cuisine with an excellent nutritional balance.

The ‘one plate, three main ingredients’ basis for Japanese cuisine is said to create an ideal nutritional balance. Clever use of ‘umami’ has also removed the need for many animal fats, which in turn has helped prevent obesity and increase life expectancy.

3. It expresses the beauty of nature and the changing of the seasons.

Whether it’s decorating food with seasonal flowers or leaves, or using implements or crockery that match the season, washoku is unique in how it lets you enjoy seasonality.

4. Its intimate connection with annual events like New Year.

Japanese cuisine has developed in close conjunction with the country’s annual events. Food is nature’s gift, and by sharing that, and spending time together eating it, family and local ties are strengthened.

Polishing this traditional cuisine and making it ever more delicious is a group of artisan Washoku specialists. In particular, those working as top chefs in authentic Japanese restaurants are called ‘Itamae’ and, similar to France’s Brigade de cuisine, have worked their way to the top of a strict hierarchical system, whereby your level is determined by the type of food you work on.

At the bottom lie the ‘Oimawashi’, who plate food and do other odd jobs. Next up are the ‘Yakikata’, who grill, and the ‘Ageba’, who make tempura. These two share the same level, but are not ‘Itamae’ yet. The classes above, ‘Nikata’ and ‘Wankata’ (who simmer and make soups, respectively), are the first to be referred to as ‘Itamae’. At the top lie the ‘Tateita’ and ‘Itacho’ – the assistant director and director respectively, to use movie parlance. Here, the Japanese scene consists of ‘Itamae’ and those who have fallen for Japanese food and taken their own path. Thanks to them, we can now get everything from traditional foods like sushi, tempura and sukiyaki, to working class delicacies like ramen, donburi and izakaya snacks, all made authentically. That’s Melbourne’s washoku.